Day 22 Lyon Camping Indigo to Morestel

Saturday July 1st

I woke at the usual time without an alarm. It was spitting rain AGAIN but not too bad. I was on the road to central Lyon by 8.30 and despite my concerns it was reasonably easy to navigate my way across France's second city.

Via Rhona

More by luck than good judgement I arrived at the Rhone just outside Brasserie Georges so I knew my way about this district. A kind young runner helped me to lift my bike down the twenty or so steps to the Via Rhona and I was on my way with comforting regular signs to Geneve.

I have followed the signs all day. The route is very well signed. It is a bit twisting and circular but it is unremittingly flat which gets my vote every time.

In mid afternoon when I reckoned I had covered at least 70 kms I was deflated to pass a sign which indicated Geneva 176 kms. I thought that it was less than that from Lyon!

the Rhone is getting smaller

Morestel

The afternoon passed without incident just the usual rain for several hours. The upside is that it generally keeps the wind down.( I do try to find the upside) I had been following signs to Morestel for two hours or more so when I finally reached there at 18.30 I decided that camping municipal de Morestel sounded good. I found it easily( for a change) but when I tried to go in they appeared to be building a new swimming pool where the campsite should be! Not again. WHY ME??

I had clocked that there was a tourist information in town so I went there to ask where the next campsites were expecting the worst so I was relieved to be told that the campsite was operating normally and I should get set up and pay in the morning.


Municipal sites in France are wonderful. Often situated by the stade or the piscine they are usually of good quality and cheap and often near Centre Ville.

That is certainly the case tonight 5.70 euros including electricity.

I  hope to reach Geneva tomorrow but I have my doubts. On vira.

Happy 64th  birthday Anne. I am sorry that I was too self absorbed to remember.

01/07/07   Saturday        La Rivoirette                  Morestel                    €5.70                                   4

small site with good toilets 5 min walk to town  

Day 21 Lyon - Camping Indigo

Friday June 30th

RESTFUL???
I got up to what is becoming the normal spitting rain. I went to to check on the state of my devices charging overnight. Nothing. Nada. Rien. Dead as a dodo.

Then I remembered that in the storm of two nights ago the cover had blown off my charging electrical devices and my charger was damp - well wet actually. Now it was dead. You suddenly realise how much we have come to rely on a charged up phone - internet access, e mail, gps, sat nav, music, maps, texts and occasionally a phone call!

The very helpful girl at reception gave me directions to the Centre Commercial where I was able to buy a replacement which is actually better than the original because it has two usb connections so it can charge two devices at once. Perfect.

Next was the washing - 10 days worth. The system involved a jeton purchased from reception. I told the previously helpful girl that I didn't do washing very often. (which was a lie. I never do washing)

 She promised to help if I couldn't make it work. I am ashamed to admit that I had to go back for help. My excuse is that I didn't have my glasses to hand.

another school trip

I purchased a day ticket for Lyon transport for €5 which allowed me to take a bus then the metro right into central Lyon.

I got some information about the Via Rhona veloroute at the tourist information but again I felt as if I got the brush off because I sought help rather than buying anything.

The plan is to follow the Via Rhona (which follows the Rhone funnily enough) to Geneva. I will decide at that point whether I have enough time, energy and desire to go around the lake.

Since it was a day off (supposedly) I treated myself to lunch at Brasserie Georges which is one of Lyon's iconic eateries.

My first time in Lyon I had stayed just round the corner and passed it several times. It looked a bit forbidding and expensive so I never did eat there.

The waiters all have white aprons and each change of customer brings a freshly starched and laundered table cover and napkin.

 It is like stepping back in time.( in a good way) The food was good as was the biere Georges (they brew their own beer)

From the sublime to the ridiculous

I have spent a couple of hours planning the next stage of my route especially from the camping into central Lyon without ending up on a motorway (again)

Fingers crossed (et les doigts de pied)

Thank you to everyone who is following my progress and asking after my progress.

It does give me a lift to know that I am not entirely alone.

30/06/17    Thursday            Camping Indigo Dardilly       €17.55                            4

very dark, shady,  ACSI rate, excellent facilities,  bar, pizza restaurant,  pool, transport to lyon

Day 20 Macon to Lyon

Thursday June 29th

It rained all night again. If there was thunder and lightning then I slept through it. It was still spitting rain when I got up later than usual. No alarm.

Macon as I left

The first job of the day was to put my new tyre on. It is 4mm wider than the previous one. It seemed daft to carry a new tyre as a spare. It went on with a bit of a struggle.

I went to the tourist office for information about cycling to Lyon but they were singularly unhelpful. They seemed to be there to sell things rather than provide info.

I decided that I would stick to the roads today. However my progress was constantly hindered by a stiff headwind which made the relatively flat road hard work.

It was a showery day. Waterproofs on - waterproofs off. However I was really lucky when I stopped at a boulangerie for something for lunch at about 14.00. Dejeuner at 14.00 ?? As I was eating my cheese sandwich in the square outside the heavens erupted and I just had time to get under cover before the real deluge. Thunder and lightning and hailstones the size of marbles were lashing down. It cleared up as fast as it arrived and I was on my way within half an hour but if I had been in the open!

Looks like more rain

The rest of the afternoon passed without incident until I got within about 10 kms of the campsite. Then it became clear that it couldn't be reached without going on the motorway or the RN7 which had become a motorway.

TWO hours later I was getting further away and climbing my tenth steep hill! What a nightmare. One hour later I was within 5 kms when I stopped to ask a man who was standing by his gate if he knew the way to Camping Indigo at Dardilly.

He said that he knew it but that it would be difficult to get there on a bike - tell me about it! He offered to let me camp in his 2 hectare garden or he would put my bike in his car and take me there! It must be my little boy lost look!

What a saviour. What a gentleman. What a heart warming gesture. I never cease to be amazed at how far people will put themselves out to help you. So he folded down the seats of his Citroen Picasso and helped me to take off my panniers then he helped me to shoehorn my bike in his car. After providing me with a cold beer he took me to the campsite which was a very circuitous route. He made sure that there was a place for me before leaving with my thanks ringing in his ears.

This is virtually the only campsite within striking distance of Lyon.

Tomorrow will be a rest day.

Washing.
Planning.
Bike lubricating
Shopping
Visiting Lyon.
Quite a rest.

29/06/17    Thursday       Camping Indigo                    Dardilly                 €17.55                          4

very dark, shady,  ACSI rate, excellent facilities,  bar, pizza restaurant,  pool, transport to lyon

Day 19 Chalon sur Saone to Macon

Wednesday June 28th

The day STARTED so well.

 It had huffed and puffed all night with lashing rain until after 04.00 but the morning was dry. The tent wasn't and wasn't going to be dry so it had to be put away soaking wet.

My randoneur friend from Lille came into the toilet block and shouted, "Bye bye  Monsieur le Scotsman! Bonne route a Lezingyang!" I was just coming out of the shower so we were able to wish each other warm "bonne route"

I was in very good spirits having had a text from Pauline to let me know that my final poem what I wrote had gone down well at Lesley-Ann's retirement event.

Old Station

I  had made sure that I knew how to get on to the "voie verte" which follows the line of a disused railway line from Chalon to Macon. All told about 80kms.

I have carried a pair of Aldi Bluetooth headphones for two weeks and for nearly every one of these days I have been tempted to throw them away. However on the cycle paths they are great. 20kms an hour no traffic listening to your favourite tunes  What's not to like? At one point I was listening to Ed Sheering singing about his mother's passing and I kept getting insects in my eyes.

By midday I had covered 50 kms and I was about 5 kms short of the start of the tunnel (which was why I had taken this route ) The tunnel du bois clair is the longest bike tunnel in Europe at 1.6 kms almost exactly a mile.

Although I had been bowling along at a good rate the destruction of last night's storm was evident in the branches and leaves and on four occasions whole trees which were on the path. It should have been no real surprise when the puncture fairy made an unwelcome visit.
I stopped beside a picnic table although it was clear that this would be no picnic. I had to unpack everything before I could begin to change the inner tube. I carry three spares and a puncture repair kit. Although there was clearly a puncture I could not find the source. I felt all around the inside of the tyre  but nothing.

Crossing my fingers (and toes) I fitted the new tube and put everything back together.(at least I thought that it was everything )When I went to re-inflate the tube with my trusty pump it became clear that it wasn't trusty. A part had shaken itself off and I could only blow the tube up a little.

I decided that it would be best to cycle the 3km to the  town of Cluny to sort it out properly.

No light at the end of the tunnel

 I had only reached the edge of the town when BANG the tube blew out and it was a miracle that I remained upright. Two punctures isn't funny.   As I set about a second repair I suddenly became aware that I didn't have my bar bag with my phone and money and passport and everything important in. I must have left it 3 kms up the hill at the site of the first puncture. Oh shit shit shit!

I abandoned my useless bike and walked as quickly as is possible wearing cycling sandals back to the cycle path. HALLELUJAH the bag was exactly where this careless stupid feckless idiot had left it.

Lucky or what!

I returned to fix my second puncture which was a huge tear not a hole. I installed a second new tube crossed everything and it seems to be ok.

However I had just got back on the bike when the heavens opened and it didn't stop or even relent until I reached Macon. (and this is supposed to be fun)

The quite forbidding entrance to the tunnel du bois clair

I did however get to go through the longest bike tunnel in Europe which was the point of taking this longer route.

I was briefly tempted to get a Chambre d' Hote but it stopped raining for long enough to get my tent up. I am writing this inside my tent because it is raining again and the thunder is rumbling in the background.

I did however stop in Macon to buy a new pump and a spare "chambre a l'air"

I have just finished a pizza topped with snails ( it is Bourgogne! ) one of the best  ever all washed down with a pichet of Macon blanc.

There is light at the end of the tunnel!

It has been a good day that could have been disastrous.

The moral of the story would appear to be: don't put all of your valuables in one bar bag.

28/06/17    Wednesday      Municipal Macon                Macon                   €17.55                              3

very big,  4km out of town, beside out of town shopping,  restaurant, bar, good toilets

Day 18 St Jean de Losne to Chalon sur Saone

Tuesday June 27th 

 I knew as I wrote it that I shouldn't have mentioned rain! It rained all night. It was actually quite soothing listening to the gentle pitter patter of rain drops on the tent knowing that the tent was definitely waterproof.

the first field of sunflowers

Impressive

After the usual routine I had to put the tent away wet. It is a nice morning so it will dry quickly at Chalon, hopefully.

I was pitched beside German randoneurs last night. They had intriguing recumbent bikes. Top of the range bikes. I don't know if I fancy cycling lying down! But since I haven't tried it I reserve judgement.

They were still snoring when I left at 08.00.

first view of Chalon

I decided to give all cycle paths a wide berth today and by exactly 12.30 I was outside the tourist information office in central Chalon.

Unfortunately, you have guessed, it closed at 12.30 for two hours so outside I remained.

Fortunately I had spied signs to camping on the other side of the Saone

It is a 15 minute walk to the centre but in a quiet calm corner. Perfect.

Chalon sur Saone has quite a lot of it nowhere near the Saone. It is quite big and industrial. Not unlike Dundee. Although the ancient centre is much more attractive.

Pedestrian only central chalon

I am off to see what I can see. I stopped at a Lidl on the outskirts. After a while you develop a nose for where to find a Lidl or an Aldi. I stocked up with things for lunch and the evening meal. No eating out today.

I am flanked on either side by French randoneurs - one from Lille and one from Angers. A few stories will be exchanged this evening I'm sure.

Island in the middle of the Saone

Just as we were getting into the stories the sky turned  grey then black then blacker then the heavens erupted in a full blown thunder storm. Lashing rain violent winds (I had to discover how to work the tent's tension band system) growling thunder preceded by sky enveloping lightning. What a storm.

We don't get them like this  in Fife.

However I did remember to get my phone and cover my saddle and I feel safe within my little dry capsule.


Let's hope it stays that way. If it can survive this it has definitely earned its stripes.

27/06/17   Tuesday           Du pont Bourgogne Chalon sur Saone       €14.20                         4

fabulous toilet block,  restaurant, bar, take away,  15 mins to centre, on river

Day 17 Scey-sur-Saone to St Jean de Losne

Monday June 26th

Last night's meal was a real disappointing affair. As usual I left the bike to walk to the restaurant recommended by the campsite reception. 800m up a hill ( avenue de Verdun) only to fnd it was   ferme!

Never mind there was another one 800m in the other direction - le restaurant de deux ports. It tried to be a bit up market but everything was fried and came with enormous German pleasing portions. The only thing up scale was the price.C'est la vie.

I  have fallen into a set of routines. Wake between 6.30 and 7.00. Up and off to the toilet block for "the three sh's the second of which is shave.

Back at the tent (which has attracted positive attention from other campers) I apply the creme chamois and sqeeeze into my padded bib shorts (not an elegant process ) Then it is into the tent demounting process.

Deflate my pillow and stuff it into the stuff sack. Roll up the sleeping bag and stuff it in its stuff sack. The same for my sleeping mat.

Then I close the inner tent and empty the porch before collapsing the tent by removing four tent pegs. Remove the poles and roll up the tent all into their stuff sacks.
Then comes the "ten people into a mini" moment. Pack everything into their panniers and mount them on the bike.

Once everything is safely stowed I fill my water bottles and have breakfast.

The last but most important job is to apply the sun screen. The whole process takes about an hour. I am beginning to long for a day without tent up tent down.A day when I need the sunscreen wouldn't hurt either.

Today I am following la Saone (pronounced "sown") it is quite picturesque and busier than before.
However by 15.00 I had enough of going round in circles on the cycle path. At one point after I had cycled about 10 kms from a village I passed a sign to the same village 3.5kms.
Enough. I took to the roads and made much better progress. I  reckon I have cycled 160 kms today for 90 kms progress south.

I have reached a fine municipal site at St Jean de Losne   I have eaten royally in the campsite restaurant for 12.3 euros. What a difference a day makes.

Camping les Harlequins St Jean de Losne

I knew I had brought these for a reason

During the afternoon it got gradually darker and the sky got darker. However I passed an old guy watering his garden which I took as a good  sign. I stopped and asked him if he would water my water bottle which he was happy to do.

What did he know. Within half an hour the rumble of thunder could be heard and it began to spit with rain. However that was it and it looks better now. I have however prepared the tent and the bike for rain overnight.

Tomorrow I will be heading for Challons-sur-Saone.

Anderson  read tomorrow 's edition of this blog!

26/06/17    Monday                les Herlequins              St  Jean de Losne          €10                              4

excellent restaurant, bar, good facilities, right on the Saone, 2km to town

Day 16 Fontenoy le Chateau to Scey-sur-Saone

Sunday June 25th

Since it is Sunday I decided to have a  lie in. I didn't get up (shock horror) until 7.30 and with taking it easy and lots of chatting with my Dutch neighbours it was 09.30 before I was on the road. the ice maiden had departed before I surfaced.

The landscape is changing 

As soon as I left the department de Vosges the good cycle path  disappeared  but it has reappeared as Veloroute 50. If I was a French citizen I would be questioning the huge investment in cycle paths and canals which are largely empty. (as I have written this at  the side of the path not a bike nor a boat has passed) I haven't seen a single soul for over an hour.

Today is about half way so perhaps it is time to take stock.



It hasn't rained since I left Scotland. (did I just say that?)
Seven countries down.
The bike is in good condition no punctures (toucher le bois) so far.
I  am in good spirits getting stronger and fitter each day.
The bum is without problem thanks to the Asos chamois cream or two showers a day.
The new saddle has bedded in well and is becoming more and more comfortable. ( I know what kind of idiot sets out on a long trip with a completely new saddle!)
 I have more stripes on me than a tiger but I keep applying the factor 30 and I am not too badly burned.
The only small problem is blisters on my hands. The sweat makes for unwanted movement between gloves and hands.
I have seen some wonderful sights and sites and met some wonderful people. And it is still only half time.
What will the next 15 days bring?.
On vira.

I have finally reached La Saone

I have spent the day getting from the canal de l' est to the "Rives de la Saone" Unfortunately there was a lot of lumpy territory in between. I am now on the Saone system and in theory I can follow it all the way to Lyon.

Tonight I am in a small campsite on the edge of the Saone in Scey-sur-Saone.

View from my tent

My large pitch with electricity and a fantastic view cost me 5.20 euros.

Here in rural France everything shuts on Sunday. In a town the size of Leven  at  lunch time I couldn't get a snack or a drink or buy anything.

There were two restaurants open but I wouldn't have enjoyed standing out like a sore thumb in my lycra amongst the Sunday Lunchers..

Thank goodness for cereal bars. Not the nicest of lunches but energy was required.

25/06/17     Sunday      La Saone Jolie                      Scey sur Saone             €5.70                          4

small site, right on Moselle, close to town centre shops, restaurant, very good toilets