Day 21 Lyon - Camping Indigo

Friday June 30th

RESTFUL???
I got up to what is becoming the normal spitting rain. I went to to check on the state of my devices charging overnight. Nothing. Nada. Rien. Dead as a dodo.

Then I remembered that in the storm of two nights ago the cover had blown off my charging electrical devices and my charger was damp - well wet actually. Now it was dead. You suddenly realise how much we have come to rely on a charged up phone - internet access, e mail, gps, sat nav, music, maps, texts and occasionally a phone call!

The very helpful girl at reception gave me directions to the Centre Commercial where I was able to buy a replacement which is actually better than the original because it has two usb connections so it can charge two devices at once. Perfect.

Next was the washing - 10 days worth. The system involved a jeton purchased from reception. I told the previously helpful girl that I didn't do washing very often. (which was a lie. I never do washing)

 She promised to help if I couldn't make it work. I am ashamed to admit that I had to go back for help. My excuse is that I didn't have my glasses to hand.

another school trip

I purchased a day ticket for Lyon transport for €5 which allowed me to take a bus then the metro right into central Lyon.

I got some information about the Via Rhona veloroute at the tourist information but again I felt as if I got the brush off because I sought help rather than buying anything.

The plan is to follow the Via Rhona (which follows the Rhone funnily enough) to Geneva. I will decide at that point whether I have enough time, energy and desire to go around the lake.

Since it was a day off (supposedly) I treated myself to lunch at Brasserie Georges which is one of Lyon's iconic eateries.

My first time in Lyon I had stayed just round the corner and passed it several times. It looked a bit forbidding and expensive so I never did eat there.

The waiters all have white aprons and each change of customer brings a freshly starched and laundered table cover and napkin.

 It is like stepping back in time.( in a good way) The food was good as was the biere Georges (they brew their own beer)

From the sublime to the ridiculous

I have spent a couple of hours planning the next stage of my route especially from the camping into central Lyon without ending up on a motorway (again)

Fingers crossed (et les doigts de pied)

Thank you to everyone who is following my progress and asking after my progress.

It does give me a lift to know that I am not entirely alone.

30/06/17    Thursday            Camping Indigo Dardilly       €17.55                            4

very dark, shady,  ACSI rate, excellent facilities,  bar, pizza restaurant,  pool, transport to lyon

Day 20 Macon to Lyon

Thursday June 29th

It rained all night again. If there was thunder and lightning then I slept through it. It was still spitting rain when I got up later than usual. No alarm.

Macon as I left

The first job of the day was to put my new tyre on. It is 4mm wider than the previous one. It seemed daft to carry a new tyre as a spare. It went on with a bit of a struggle.

I went to the tourist office for information about cycling to Lyon but they were singularly unhelpful. They seemed to be there to sell things rather than provide info.

I decided that I would stick to the roads today. However my progress was constantly hindered by a stiff headwind which made the relatively flat road hard work.

It was a showery day. Waterproofs on - waterproofs off. However I was really lucky when I stopped at a boulangerie for something for lunch at about 14.00. Dejeuner at 14.00 ?? As I was eating my cheese sandwich in the square outside the heavens erupted and I just had time to get under cover before the real deluge. Thunder and lightning and hailstones the size of marbles were lashing down. It cleared up as fast as it arrived and I was on my way within half an hour but if I had been in the open!

Looks like more rain

The rest of the afternoon passed without incident until I got within about 10 kms of the campsite. Then it became clear that it couldn't be reached without going on the motorway or the RN7 which had become a motorway.

TWO hours later I was getting further away and climbing my tenth steep hill! What a nightmare. One hour later I was within 5 kms when I stopped to ask a man who was standing by his gate if he knew the way to Camping Indigo at Dardilly.

He said that he knew it but that it would be difficult to get there on a bike - tell me about it! He offered to let me camp in his 2 hectare garden or he would put my bike in his car and take me there! It must be my little boy lost look!

What a saviour. What a gentleman. What a heart warming gesture. I never cease to be amazed at how far people will put themselves out to help you. So he folded down the seats of his Citroen Picasso and helped me to take off my panniers then he helped me to shoehorn my bike in his car. After providing me with a cold beer he took me to the campsite which was a very circuitous route. He made sure that there was a place for me before leaving with my thanks ringing in his ears.

This is virtually the only campsite within striking distance of Lyon.

Tomorrow will be a rest day.

Washing.
Planning.
Bike lubricating
Shopping
Visiting Lyon.
Quite a rest.

29/06/17    Thursday       Camping Indigo                    Dardilly                 €17.55                          4

very dark, shady,  ACSI rate, excellent facilities,  bar, pizza restaurant,  pool, transport to lyon

Day 19 Chalon sur Saone to Macon

Wednesday June 28th

The day STARTED so well.

 It had huffed and puffed all night with lashing rain until after 04.00 but the morning was dry. The tent wasn't and wasn't going to be dry so it had to be put away soaking wet.

My randoneur friend from Lille came into the toilet block and shouted, "Bye bye  Monsieur le Scotsman! Bonne route a Lezingyang!" I was just coming out of the shower so we were able to wish each other warm "bonne route"

I was in very good spirits having had a text from Pauline to let me know that my final poem what I wrote had gone down well at Lesley-Ann's retirement event.

Old Station

I  had made sure that I knew how to get on to the "voie verte" which follows the line of a disused railway line from Chalon to Macon. All told about 80kms.

I have carried a pair of Aldi Bluetooth headphones for two weeks and for nearly every one of these days I have been tempted to throw them away. However on the cycle paths they are great. 20kms an hour no traffic listening to your favourite tunes  What's not to like? At one point I was listening to Ed Sheering singing about his mother's passing and I kept getting insects in my eyes.

By midday I had covered 50 kms and I was about 5 kms short of the start of the tunnel (which was why I had taken this route ) The tunnel du bois clair is the longest bike tunnel in Europe at 1.6 kms almost exactly a mile.

Although I had been bowling along at a good rate the destruction of last night's storm was evident in the branches and leaves and on four occasions whole trees which were on the path. It should have been no real surprise when the puncture fairy made an unwelcome visit.
I stopped beside a picnic table although it was clear that this would be no picnic. I had to unpack everything before I could begin to change the inner tube. I carry three spares and a puncture repair kit. Although there was clearly a puncture I could not find the source. I felt all around the inside of the tyre  but nothing.

Crossing my fingers (and toes) I fitted the new tube and put everything back together.(at least I thought that it was everything )When I went to re-inflate the tube with my trusty pump it became clear that it wasn't trusty. A part had shaken itself off and I could only blow the tube up a little.

I decided that it would be best to cycle the 3km to the  town of Cluny to sort it out properly.

No light at the end of the tunnel

 I had only reached the edge of the town when BANG the tube blew out and it was a miracle that I remained upright. Two punctures isn't funny.   As I set about a second repair I suddenly became aware that I didn't have my bar bag with my phone and money and passport and everything important in. I must have left it 3 kms up the hill at the site of the first puncture. Oh shit shit shit!

I abandoned my useless bike and walked as quickly as is possible wearing cycling sandals back to the cycle path. HALLELUJAH the bag was exactly where this careless stupid feckless idiot had left it.

Lucky or what!

I returned to fix my second puncture which was a huge tear not a hole. I installed a second new tube crossed everything and it seems to be ok.

However I had just got back on the bike when the heavens opened and it didn't stop or even relent until I reached Macon. (and this is supposed to be fun)

The quite forbidding entrance to the tunnel du bois clair

I did however get to go through the longest bike tunnel in Europe which was the point of taking this longer route.

I was briefly tempted to get a Chambre d' Hote but it stopped raining for long enough to get my tent up. I am writing this inside my tent because it is raining again and the thunder is rumbling in the background.

I did however stop in Macon to buy a new pump and a spare "chambre a l'air"

I have just finished a pizza topped with snails ( it is Bourgogne! ) one of the best  ever all washed down with a pichet of Macon blanc.

There is light at the end of the tunnel!

It has been a good day that could have been disastrous.

The moral of the story would appear to be: don't put all of your valuables in one bar bag.

28/06/17    Wednesday      Municipal Macon                Macon                   €17.55                              3

very big,  4km out of town, beside out of town shopping,  restaurant, bar, good toilets

Day 18 St Jean de Losne to Chalon sur Saone

Tuesday June 27th 

 I knew as I wrote it that I shouldn't have mentioned rain! It rained all night. It was actually quite soothing listening to the gentle pitter patter of rain drops on the tent knowing that the tent was definitely waterproof.

the first field of sunflowers

Impressive

After the usual routine I had to put the tent away wet. It is a nice morning so it will dry quickly at Chalon, hopefully.

I was pitched beside German randoneurs last night. They had intriguing recumbent bikes. Top of the range bikes. I don't know if I fancy cycling lying down! But since I haven't tried it I reserve judgement.

They were still snoring when I left at 08.00.

first view of Chalon

I decided to give all cycle paths a wide berth today and by exactly 12.30 I was outside the tourist information office in central Chalon.

Unfortunately, you have guessed, it closed at 12.30 for two hours so outside I remained.

Fortunately I had spied signs to camping on the other side of the Saone

It is a 15 minute walk to the centre but in a quiet calm corner. Perfect.

Chalon sur Saone has quite a lot of it nowhere near the Saone. It is quite big and industrial. Not unlike Dundee. Although the ancient centre is much more attractive.

Pedestrian only central chalon

I am off to see what I can see. I stopped at a Lidl on the outskirts. After a while you develop a nose for where to find a Lidl or an Aldi. I stocked up with things for lunch and the evening meal. No eating out today.

I am flanked on either side by French randoneurs - one from Lille and one from Angers. A few stories will be exchanged this evening I'm sure.

Island in the middle of the Saone

Just as we were getting into the stories the sky turned  grey then black then blacker then the heavens erupted in a full blown thunder storm. Lashing rain violent winds (I had to discover how to work the tent's tension band system) growling thunder preceded by sky enveloping lightning. What a storm.

We don't get them like this  in Fife.

However I did remember to get my phone and cover my saddle and I feel safe within my little dry capsule.


Let's hope it stays that way. If it can survive this it has definitely earned its stripes.

27/06/17   Tuesday           Du pont Bourgogne Chalon sur Saone       €14.20                         4

fabulous toilet block,  restaurant, bar, take away,  15 mins to centre, on river

Day 17 Scey-sur-Saone to St Jean de Losne

Monday June 26th

Last night's meal was a real disappointing affair. As usual I left the bike to walk to the restaurant recommended by the campsite reception. 800m up a hill ( avenue de Verdun) only to fnd it was   ferme!

Never mind there was another one 800m in the other direction - le restaurant de deux ports. It tried to be a bit up market but everything was fried and came with enormous German pleasing portions. The only thing up scale was the price.C'est la vie.

I  have fallen into a set of routines. Wake between 6.30 and 7.00. Up and off to the toilet block for "the three sh's the second of which is shave.

Back at the tent (which has attracted positive attention from other campers) I apply the creme chamois and sqeeeze into my padded bib shorts (not an elegant process ) Then it is into the tent demounting process.

Deflate my pillow and stuff it into the stuff sack. Roll up the sleeping bag and stuff it in its stuff sack. The same for my sleeping mat.

Then I close the inner tent and empty the porch before collapsing the tent by removing four tent pegs. Remove the poles and roll up the tent all into their stuff sacks.
Then comes the "ten people into a mini" moment. Pack everything into their panniers and mount them on the bike.

Once everything is safely stowed I fill my water bottles and have breakfast.

The last but most important job is to apply the sun screen. The whole process takes about an hour. I am beginning to long for a day without tent up tent down.A day when I need the sunscreen wouldn't hurt either.

Today I am following la Saone (pronounced "sown") it is quite picturesque and busier than before.
However by 15.00 I had enough of going round in circles on the cycle path. At one point after I had cycled about 10 kms from a village I passed a sign to the same village 3.5kms.
Enough. I took to the roads and made much better progress. I  reckon I have cycled 160 kms today for 90 kms progress south.

I have reached a fine municipal site at St Jean de Losne   I have eaten royally in the campsite restaurant for 12.3 euros. What a difference a day makes.

Camping les Harlequins St Jean de Losne

I knew I had brought these for a reason

During the afternoon it got gradually darker and the sky got darker. However I passed an old guy watering his garden which I took as a good  sign. I stopped and asked him if he would water my water bottle which he was happy to do.

What did he know. Within half an hour the rumble of thunder could be heard and it began to spit with rain. However that was it and it looks better now. I have however prepared the tent and the bike for rain overnight.

Tomorrow I will be heading for Challons-sur-Saone.

Anderson  read tomorrow 's edition of this blog!

26/06/17    Monday                les Herlequins              St  Jean de Losne          €10                              4

excellent restaurant, bar, good facilities, right on the Saone, 2km to town

Day 16 Fontenoy le Chateau to Scey-sur-Saone

Sunday June 25th

Since it is Sunday I decided to have a  lie in. I didn't get up (shock horror) until 7.30 and with taking it easy and lots of chatting with my Dutch neighbours it was 09.30 before I was on the road. the ice maiden had departed before I surfaced.

The landscape is changing 

As soon as I left the department de Vosges the good cycle path  disappeared  but it has reappeared as Veloroute 50. If I was a French citizen I would be questioning the huge investment in cycle paths and canals which are largely empty. (as I have written this at  the side of the path not a bike nor a boat has passed) I haven't seen a single soul for over an hour.

Today is about half way so perhaps it is time to take stock.



It hasn't rained since I left Scotland. (did I just say that?)
Seven countries down.
The bike is in good condition no punctures (toucher le bois) so far.
I  am in good spirits getting stronger and fitter each day.
The bum is without problem thanks to the Asos chamois cream or two showers a day.
The new saddle has bedded in well and is becoming more and more comfortable. ( I know what kind of idiot sets out on a long trip with a completely new saddle!)
 I have more stripes on me than a tiger but I keep applying the factor 30 and I am not too badly burned.
The only small problem is blisters on my hands. The sweat makes for unwanted movement between gloves and hands.
I have seen some wonderful sights and sites and met some wonderful people. And it is still only half time.
What will the next 15 days bring?.
On vira.

I have finally reached La Saone

I have spent the day getting from the canal de l' est to the "Rives de la Saone" Unfortunately there was a lot of lumpy territory in between. I am now on the Saone system and in theory I can follow it all the way to Lyon.

Tonight I am in a small campsite on the edge of the Saone in Scey-sur-Saone.

View from my tent

My large pitch with electricity and a fantastic view cost me 5.20 euros.

Here in rural France everything shuts on Sunday. In a town the size of Leven  at  lunch time I couldn't get a snack or a drink or buy anything.

There were two restaurants open but I wouldn't have enjoyed standing out like a sore thumb in my lycra amongst the Sunday Lunchers..

Thank goodness for cereal bars. Not the nicest of lunches but energy was required.

25/06/17     Sunday      La Saone Jolie                      Scey sur Saone             €5.70                          4

small site, right on Moselle, close to town centre shops, restaurant, very good toilets

Day 15 Villers les Nancy to Fontenoy le Chateau

Saturday 24th June

Today  hasn't been a bad day.
 I made sure that I knew exactly which very steep hill I was going down to get back to the Moselle. The Moselle took fright and gave Nancy a wide berth so it was 5 kms or so to get back on the "voie verte".

Charmes. (it looked like the American civil war)

The cycle paths are well signed once you are on them but you could ride 100 m parallel with one and never see a sign inviting you to join. 

Equally there are no signs to towns on the cycle path.  It is like separate ecosystems in parallel universes.

Unusual

So I set off on the canal de l'est which I was hoping would carry me south (stay awake at the back I will ask questions later)

Brilliantly well surfaced very well signed almost flat quite picturesque  but if I am totally honest - a bit boring.

I passed about 10 bikes all day and a smaller number of boats. When is the season?

A picnic lunch 

I was riding along wondering what I could possibly say about this when I decided that a drink of water was in order so as I propped my overweight bike for the hundredth time in similar fashion  bike and rider went down in a heap.

I was very aware that I was in the middle of nowhere with no mobile signal. Fortunately bike and rider are both fine.

After about 110 kms and at about 16.30 I decided to try to find a camping. I asked a lady at one of the regularly occurring  "ecluses" or locks where the nearest site was. I was surprised and delighted in equal measure to discover a site was just 5 kms away.

It is a small site but with a shop and bar and restaurant on site. The patrone is Dutch (surprise surprise) but very switched on to the needs of cyclists. She offered me a chair to sit on and a corkscrew at the drop of a hat.

The only downside to cycling along canals and rivers in hilly countryside is that everywhere away from the canal  is up! Not up like last night but enough to have me gasping for air when I reached the site 3 kms above Fontenoy le Chateau.

I am camped next to a Dutch lady of uncertain age who is cycling from Holland to Barcelona. She speaks French better than me (I took her for French at first) and actually probably speaks English better as well.

Heading ever South tomorrow I don't think I will offer to keep the ice maiden company. She emits negative vibes to keep unwanted attention at bay.

24/06/17    Saturday      Camping Fontenoy-le-Chateau                  €6.70                                           4

very friendly, cycle friendly site, bar, restaurant on site, 2km to town

Day 14 Nancy

Friday June 23rd

Place Stanislas

Nancy is a brilliant city. History by the bucketful. Passed back and forth between French and German Dukes. It has a wonderful ambiance. It was worth the heart stopping climb last evening to experience Nancy.
I walked about a mile to  get  to the tram station payed my 1.3 euro and within 10 mins I was in the centre. Wow! Wow!

I almost felt sorry for the teachers.

It is very elegant!   Laid out in broad avenues long before  Edinburgh's New Town.

I decided to take le petit train touristique to get a quick overview of the city centre.

I had lunch here

Afterwards I had lunch right by the main Stanislav square. Bravely or stupidly we shall see tomorrow I had le plat du jour which was "beouf tartare" and a 1/4 litre of rose - delicious.


I then set off to retrace the route of the petit train to take photos.

Yet another city that I have to revisit to see it properly. We must bring the camping car here the next time we are anywhere near.

I have walked for miles today and thoroughly enjoyed it. I hope that walking and cycling muscles are different.

I have taken more photos than Pauline and that is nearly impossible! But I took mine quickly. Snaps.

They will appear just as soon as I can work out how to get them into blogger efficiently.

Nancy. Il faut y aller!

In the central park

Day 13 Metz to Nancy

Thursday June 22nd

Metz to Nancy.

An easy day of 44 kms or so.

Wrong! So wrong!

I had mixed up my miles and kms it was 77kms when I reached the first sign and I just couldn't get going. I had thought that I would be in Nancy for lunch!

I set off on the "piste cyclable" flat, well signed, warm but easy enough. The cycle path followed a route between the Moselle and the canal du Moselle. At first it was through a forest - very isolated and peaceful. I passed nobody for an hour until I encountered a guy pushing his mountain bike because he had a puncture. I stopped and offered him one of my spare tubes but he said that he was close to home and he was fine. As we chatted he asked one question after another it was more 120 questions than 20 questions.

I carried on and the path came to a sudden end. No signs but I was at a bridge which I crossed.

Things went uphill or was it downhill from there! That was the last I saw of the cycle path. The road was much hillier and a wind had sprung up in my face. After the first up I was inexplicably tired. It wasn't yet lunchtime and I was struggling to keep going. It was only when I reached Nancy and the thermometers were showing 38 degs and no sun that I realised why.

Still I had reached Nancy I would soon be settled and a day off tomorrow.


I rode about for 10 mins without finding any useful signs so I stopped a man of about fifty who deflated me by telling me that the municipal campsite was at Villers les Nancy 6 kms away straight up the steepest hill you can imagine.

Think Cadgers brae followed by Annfield Brae three or for times. He apologised for not being able to take me in his car which was too small and promptly telephoned ahead to the site to make sure I didn't climb the hill in vain.

No problem- there was room at the inn.  I almost wished it was full. What a gentleman.

I set off. It wasn't too bad at first but the heat and my lack of water ( I had already drunk four one and a half lire  bottles of water) were taking their toll and I had to resort to gear 28 (walking)

I was only able to push the distance between two lampposts before needing to rest. About two thirds of the way up, a gentleman ( a true gentleman) of about thirty-five stopped to ask if I was ok and offered to put my bike in the back of his smart Golf GTI. I told him that I was knackered but that I could make it.

He must have thought otherwise because a few moments later he came down the hill and insisted that he would help me push my bike to the top. The fact that I allowed him to help me gratefully should tell you everything. When I thanked him effusively and shook his hand he replied, "C'est normal." It might be normal in his world but I was moved practically to tears by this demonstration of human kindness.

When I reached the campsite it was almost worth it. Camping le Brabois is a well appointed site. As I set about putting up my tent my German neighbours brought me a very welcome cold beer. The good news is 6 kms of freewheeling tomorrow to get back to the Moselle.(there is always an upside)

Tomorrow I will take the tram into Nancy to see the sights basking in the warm glow of human kindness.

22/06/17    Thursday         Camping le Brabois             Villers les  Nancy           €15                     4

 camp shop open till 10, fresh eggs, bread,  good toilets,   nothing walkable

Day 12 Arlon to Metz

Wednesday June 21st

Today was a brilliant day. I was up bright and early. Sunny and warm at 07.00 didn't bode well for the temperatures later in the day. I chatted to German motor bikers who had arrived after I had gone to bed. They had done a bicycle tour in New Zealand in the past and so were sympathetic and interested.

Luxembourg City

Arlon officiel campsite might be the best site I have ever stayed on. It is quirky but beautifully kept,  with lots of thoughtful and artistic touches.

I left at 07.30 on a horrible main road with no bike path but by 08.00 I was in Luxembourg and bowling along in an empty bus lane.

Luxembourg Basse

I reached Luxembourg City by 09.30.



It is on two distinct levels. "Haut ville" which was the main level and "basse ville" which was so low they had installed an elevator that bikes were allowed in. I spent two hours exploring which was fun and another hour "exploring" when I was trying to get out (which wasn't fun)

It is easy to find the way in to  city centres but never easy to get out again.

Feeling good, I decided to get off the bike paths and plotted a route east to reach the Moselle at about 13.30.

The sign said Schengen 18 kms so I set off and just over an hour later I crossed the bridge over the Moselle and into Deutchland.

I stopped at the Schengen museum for a beer and a sandwich and told the patron that I had been in three countries. He just shrugged a Gallic shrug as if to say "lots of people do that". When I told him that one of the three was Belgium he shook my hand. "It will be four countries in 3 kms monsieur"

3 kms later I bagged my fourth country in one day!

Not bad for an old man.

Deutchland

La France!

Still only 4.30 I pressed on towards Thionville meaning to spend the night there.

However unable to find the site at Thionville which I had been unreliably informed was on the Moselle I had no option but to press on the further  36 kms to Metz.

I arrived as the church bells were striking 19.00

 It was a big day - probably more than 120kms but a good day and it wasn't over yet.

Tent up showered and having gulped down 3 litres of water, I set out to explore la fete de la musique in Metz. (I had been out of water since before Thionville) The pistes cyclables are brilliant but there are no houses or shops or fountain to refill at.

 Lesson: get water as soon as one of my two bottles is empty.

Music Festival

music festival

Metz was brilliant and colourful and noisy but all good humoured.

I am afraid I joined in rather too well which is why I am writing this at 09.00 before heading for Nancy.


 Four countries in one day how can I top that?

21/05/17   Wednesday          Metz Municipal plage       Metz                 €14                                       3

not enough toilets for site size,  restaurant poor,  fantastic location on Moselle, near centre Metz